NDIHX-PTZ2 camera overshooting PTZ controls

I bought a TC Mini SDI bundle (the Mini with AE3, two PTZ2 cameras, a Lumens PTZ controller, and a Planet brand gigabit POE switch) from a reputable NewTek reseller in the Chicago area. Straight out of the box, I had issues where the controller and the Cameras just didn't seem to be working well together: very often (and I'm talking as bad as three or four out of ten times), when I release the joystick after a move, the camera overshoots and continues anywhere from a few degrees past the intended stopping point on up to the full range of its ability to move. During the overshoot, nothing I do with the joystick will stop the camera, and maybe half the time, the joystick itself will not regain control of the camera for several seconds, if at all. I don't need to tell anyone here that that's absolute death during a live shoot, moreso one that's being streamed.

I've battled this for well over a year. At first, I asked the vendor if the Lumens controller was really the best match for the cameras. I was told it literally was the best match because Lumens is the manufacturer of the NewTek cameras themselves, so the vendor recommends Lumens controllers specifically for those cameras. They offered some things to try but nothing really worked. Lumens was even less helpful, pulling the "let me talk to our guys and get back to you" line and then ghosting me.

Recently, fed up with the situation and having no budget to replace what is essentially new gear (we're a public school), I reached back out to the vendor and Lumens with a six-minute video I made, illustrating the worst examples of these overshoots from just a single night of use. No usable help from the vendor, absolute crickets from Lumens. Not a peep.

I don't recall if I posted here at that time, and the only reason I'm not checking that is that I've already decided I'll post here now (either for the first time, or again, as the case may be).

I've tried different cameras (replaced one of the PTZ2s with an identical unit) — no joy. Today I replaced the Planet switch with a brand new Aruba switch (an HP box branded as both Aruba and HP right on the product). It's one of our stand-by POE switches here at the school, and was literally new-in-box. New cam, new switch, same old issues.

I've also tried using the TriCaster's own PTZ control. Slightly faster camera response, but overshoots still happen. Furthermore, I swapped out my Mini CS (the small one that came with my TC Mini bundle) for a larger CS that came with the Broadcasting class' 455 model TriCaster. That control surface has a joystick which I knew would control my PTZ cameras (even though it's probably meant more for virtual set movement). It did control the cams, but also experienced overshooting.

Even presets are dicey on the Lumens controller. I sometimes have to try three or four times to save a preset, and calling them up works maybe 85% of the time. Not very reliable when trying to lock a preset on a live shot I might want to use again.

Finally, I downloaded PTZ Optics' free PTZ controller software. I figured maybe I'll run it on a laptop with a touchscreen, so I can call up presets quickly by touching the screen. Nothing worked... I couldn't get it to talk to the cameras.

I haven't yet tried a different brand of PTZ controller, but I'll be doing so later this week... I'll take one from our Board of Education room where I've had no issues controlling two cams with this controller. The cams and controller at that building are made by Ottica, and were purchased as a set of two cams and the controller. If the Ottica controller works better than the Lumens, I'll be really miffed that we paid so much for the Lumens and it doesn't stack up to the other, supposedly lesser brand. I don't have any other NDI cameras to try (I'm sure not taking the Otticas off the ceiling mounts at the office building).

So, after that long-winded intro, my questions are:

Does anyone else have frequent overshooting PTZ2 movement (let go of controller, camera continues moving)?
Have you figured out a way to overcome the issue?
In the opinion of my fellow users, are NewTek's cameras and Lumens' controllers actually any good?

ANY useful advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

— Mike
 
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Live manual control of a PTZ camera takes practice. For most workflows, I recommend that you use PTZ presets for recall unless you need to be following around someone. If I have to follow someone around manually by PTZ, I always shoot a bit wider than normal. I have good results using NDI Studio Monitor for camera control via the keyboard (use the arrow keys, or CTRL+Arrow to keep the camera motion slow). I know that isn't as fancy as a joystick, but I find this control to be precise.

A bit of overshoot (in the few degrees case) can be caused by a few reasons and would be considered normal. The camera motors can't stop instantly (especially at higher speeds) and a highly zoom in image will be affected more by this more. The LongGOP nature of H.264 encoding means you are watching an image that is a few frames behind 'real-time'. Meaning that when you 'stop' there are still a few frames 'in flight' to be displayed. Working at a higher frame rate can help with this a bit, as that will 'lower' time per frame (in turn lowering the latency). You might try working in 720p59.94 versus 1080p29.97 and see if that helps a bit (make sure the camera is set to 720p59.94 and not just the TriCaster).

The PTZ continuing to move after you have released the joystick sounds like the camera missed getting the 'stop' command. They way that PTZ commands work, is that the joystick will say 'move left' and nothing else needs to be sent to the camera for it to keep moving. It stops when gets a 'stop' command or reaches the maximum distance it can move. It's not getting a continuous stream of 'move left' commands. I also wonder if there is the possibility for a preset being recalled? That would cause the camera to ignore manual controls until it has reached the preset destination.

I'm not familiar with the Lumen's PTZ controller, but you are correct in that the PTZ2 is a Lumen's OEM camera. I'm also not familiar with the PTZ Optics controller software you mention, but I think it only controls PTZ Optics banded cameras.
 
I have good results using NDI Studio Monitor for camera control via the keyboard (use the arrow keys, or CTRL+Arrow to keep the camera motion slow). I know that isn't as fancy as a joystick, but I find this control to be precise.

I'll give that a try. For concerts it'll probably do well, not so sure about football. But that's an issue for next year.

You might try working in 720p59.94 versus 1080p29.97 and see if that helps a bit (make sure the camera is set to 720p59.94 and not just the TriCaster).

Interesting take. I'll give that a shot. Our shows go out over standard-def cable-TV (high school PEG channel) and web streaming at less than 720, so that's fine with me. Saves hard drive space too, so I'm good with that. Thank you for that perspective — good to know!

The PTZ continuing to move after you have released the joystick sounds like the camera missed getting the 'stop' command.
... and ...
I also wonder if there is the possibility for a preset being recalled? That would cause the camera to ignore manual controls until it has reached the preset destination.
I have been telling myself "this looks like a STOP command isn't being sent," so I'm glad for the confirmation there. As to a preset being the issue, I don't suspect that to be the case here. Presets are always rock-solid for me, it's just that I can't always go strictly on presets, especially with sports.

One thing I paid attention to at the end of the day Monday when swapped out the switch: A lot of my moves involve more than one axis of control simultaneously: following the ball in a football game has me doing just about everything at the same time — panning and tilting, for sure, with a bit of zooming sometimes. I like your "wider than usual" approach. That will take some personal re-training since I try to get fairly close to the player when it's a big play.

But back to my test: when I connected all my NDI devices to the new switch and tried out the cameras, it seemed at first that control was tight and responsive, and with no overshoots. But then I tried more complex moves (zooming out while panning and tilting) and that's when I believe I encountered more overshoots. So maybe that's the issue? I have to experiment with easing off on one axis before releasing another, as opposed to just letting the joystick snap back quickly to stop the move. Maybe there's something there. So stop panning before I stop tilting, see if that changes things.

Would setting a higher baud rate help? I see my PTZ2 cams' System DIP switches are all at default — RS232C, IR output off (irrelevant, I think — not using IR), and baud set to 9600. Maybe I should try 38400? I mean, we're going over fast Ethernet cable here, not old-fashioned serial cable.

Thank you, Kane, for the reply. I just started working through some NewTek training courses, and started with the graphics course you taught. I really enjoyed it, and appreciate what you do for training at NewTek and here on the boards. I go back to the Amiga 2000 Toaster and Flyer days (I was a beta Flyer owner), and even had the DigiView scanner for my Amiga 500 back in the day, so I love that I'm here using TriCasters all these years later. Your guidance is helping me stay in the game, and I appreciate it.

— Mike
 
The baud rate has no effect on IP communication, it only applies to serial connections.

I go back to those Amiga days as well. I used to work at an Amiga dealership called MicroTech Solutions that was based in the Chicagoland area. Built Toasters, Flyers, Lightwave systems with DPS PAR cards. Still have fond memories of those days!
 
The baud rate has no effect on IP communication, it only applies to serial connections.

I go back to those Amiga days as well. I used to work at an Amiga dealership called MicroTech Solutions that was based in the Chicagoland area. Built Toasters, Flyers, Lightwave systems with DPS PAR cards. Still have fond memories of those days!
I probably bought from you back then! I can only think of a handful of Amiga specialist stores in the area. I bought my 500 — on my first-ever credit card, an Amiga card — across the street from Gofl Mill. I got a lot of my software and peripherals from a store at roughly Peterson & Lincoln Ave., and I remember more than once going all the way out to roughly Aurora for some higher-end stuff, including a dye-sub printer. That's where I saw my first exposure to LightWave running on a computer fast enough to render and playback in real-time — they used to lease out time on fast-render hardware for users who needed faster completion. I think ElekTek in Lincolnwood may have dealt in some Amiga or Amiga-friendly stuff, as well.

I bought my first gigabyte hard drive for around $1300 at the time, and people asked why I would ever need so much hard drive storage (remembering that the Toaster software came on floppies back then). I even still have some of my Toaster magazines where you got lightwave projects and free libraries of various media on a disc every other month.

I stuffed my A2000 with an Emplant running Mac emulation, the Flyer rendering out LightWave animations for two weeks at a time, and I forget the name of it, but I had a telephone system running on it as well... multiple voicemail boxes all driven by my Amiga. I don't remember it ever crashing, even with everything running at once.

Good times....
 
The place in Aurora had to be MicroTech, it is very possible we met at some point. We used to sell those Primera dye-sub printers, the color output from them was amazing at the time for the price.
 
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